How to Replace a Broken Window Pane
Dec 20, · Brand new and great video!!!: "How to install a toilet " loveallfind.com?v=vfVzwc9Lixs --~--Having the opportunity of replacing . The trickiest part of replacing broken glass panes in wood-frame windows is getting replacement glass that’s sized exactly right. To replace a broken glass pane in a wood window, you need to measure the precise length and width of the grooves in which the pane will fit. Tip: Have the new glass .
Last Updated: September 20, References. This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. There are 22 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 26, times. Learn more Replacing a window pane is a lot easier than you might think. You just need the right tools and a few hours to take care of it by yourself for a fraction of the cost.
Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Part 1 of All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Lay a drop cloth or sheet under the window to avoid making a mess. Fixing a window pane can be a messy job, and you'll probably get dust, putty, and glass everywhere.
Catch all of this debris by setting up a drop cloth before you start working to protect your floors. Put on thick gloves and eye protection before starting. Always put on a pair of thick gloves to protect your hands, and also goggles or a face shield to protect your eyes. Pop off the glazing around the pane with a sharp putty knife. Use a putty knife—the sharper the better.
Find the line separating the glaze from the wood at any point, and insert the putty knife there. Then push towards the pane to break the glazing off. Continue working your way around the pane and pop off all the glazing holding it in.
This can soften the glazing and make removing it easier. Scrape off any remaining glazing or glue along with border of the pane. When you break off all the big pieces of glazing, there might still be some remnants left over.
Scrape your knife around the border of the pane to get rid of any leftovers holding the pane in. Tape an X on both sides of the pane with duct tape. Prevent glass from flying everywhere by taping off the window first. Make an X across each side of the pane with duct tape so the glass stays together when you break it. If you can get a grip on the pane, then you can just pull it out. Break the pane by tapping it with a hammer or similar tool. Use either a hammer or the handle of a screwdriver and tap the pane until it breaks.
Tap in a few different spots so the pane breaks all over. Pop the old pane out of position and remove all the glass. Once the pane is broken, it should come out easily. Grab it in any spot you can get a grip, and pull it out. Even though you taped the glass, some shards might still break free as you remove the pane. Check the floor and pick up any loose pieces. Some windows use hooks or other small metal pieces to keep the panes in place.
If you see any of these, pull them out as well. Sand the border of the sash. Use coarse sandpaper and sand around the whole rabbet, or the groove where the window sits. Smooth everything down to the bare wood. If you missed any glass pieces, you could get a serious cut. Part 2 of Get a replacement glass pane with the same dimensions as the old one. You can get replacement glass panes at any hardware store.
Measure the length and height of the space, and use those dimensions to buy a new pane that fits into the sash. Hardware stores will also you are what you eat website the pane for you if you bring your measurements in.
Run caulk around the border of the sash. Use your caulk gun and angle it onto the notch section of the sash. Squeeze a bead of caulking on all 4 sides of the sash.
This is important to cushion the glass and weather-seal the window. In general, silicone or polymer caulk is recommended for windows. These are flexible enough to expand with the window and make a weather-tight seal. You could also use butyl rubber. Press the new pane into the caulk. Hold the new ear gauges how to start firmly and line it up with the sash. Slide it into the sash from the bottom first, then work your way up until the pane is completely in.
Press down gently so the glass adheres to the caulk. Do your best to line up the pane perfectly the first time. Removing it to reset it will make a mess and could break the glass. Each one has a pointed end and a toothed end. Arrange each one so the pointed side points toward the wood. Then use your putty knife to press it into the wood at the center of the pane.
Put one how to reset ie as default browser these on each side of the glass. If the pane is 12 in 30 cm or longer on any side, then put points every 4—6 in 10—15 cm instead. Window putty is hard at first, so you need to warm it up. Knead it between your hands to warm and soften it up.
You can get it from the hardware store. Window putty or glazing also comes in a caulking tube. You might find this easier to work with. If you use it, apply it the same way you would apply caulk.
Lay a strip of putty on each side of the pane. Press the putty firmly along the side of the pane and press it into the wood to make a tight seal. Do this on all 4 sides so the window stays locked in place. You can clean up the edges afterward. Smooth out the putty with your knife.
Start at one of the corners of the window pane. Hold your putty knife at a degree angle with the glass and tilt it to touch the wood on the window sash. Then press the blade down with your finger and pull the knife along that strip of putty to flatten it out. Peel off any excess putty that comes off. Repeat this on all 4 sides of the window. Scrape this off as well so the window looks nice and neat. Clean up and let the putty dry for days.
It takes days for the putty to cure. In the meantime, clean up the mess and put your tools away while you wait for everything to set properly. Check carefully for any shards of glass that might have fallen out while you were working. Paint the window sash if you want to.
Sep 29, · How To Replace Glass on Steel Windows. Now that we’ve covered the safety tips, we can get into the nitty gritty of replacing that pane of glass. Step 1 Remove Old Putty. Using a 1/2? chisel and a hammer, dig out the putty on the exterior of the pane that needs replacement. Make sure you remove as much as possible to give the glass room to. How to Change Out Broken Glass in an Aluminum Window. Accidents happen and broken windows may be the result. When you go to replace the glass, you may realize that the window has an aluminum frame. Apr 25, · Unless your window is really old, this is probably what you have. 2) Interior color and exterior color of the sash (unless you have one of the old primed units -- you have to paint these). 3) Visible glass size, height and width. Measure only the part of the glass that is exposed. Do not try to guess how much glass is in the wood. 4) Glass code.
They were also delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were still intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate cast-bronze fireplace. The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era home, This Old House TV's fall project in Newton, Massachusetts.
Because the existing window frames were sound and square, Tom could use insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen's Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad wood units fitted with energy-saving, low-e insulated glass. These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings. When the job was done, the house had beautiful new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more thing to love about their old house.
Here's a look at how Tom made the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows. Unlike full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. There are three basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units.
Sash-replacement kits—what Tom found on the Newton house—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between. For these to work, the existing window frame must be level and square. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs.
Because you're adding new jambs and liners, the glass area will be slightly smaller than it was before. Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they have a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the only option when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, you must strip the window opening down to its rough framing, inside and out. The most important step in the window-replacement process happens long before installation day.
Measuring for Replacements Photo by Russell Kaye The most important step in the window-replacement process happens long before installation day.
Start by measuring the inside width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the top, middle, and bottom. Write down the smallest of the three measurements. Next, measure the frame's height from the top of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in three places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right.
Again, record the smallest measurement. Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner.
The two dimensions should be the same. Anything more may require adjustments to the frame. If the frame is so out of whack that a square replacement wouldn't look right, you'll need a full-frame replacement. Finally, use an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a choice of sill angles.
In most cases, you'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. If you're planning to reinstall the stops, do this job carefully; they break easily. Next, take out the parting beads to free the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, there won't be any beads. Simply press in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forward. Then pivot one side of the sash upward to free it from the jamb liners.
In the case of an original window, remove any remaining wooden stops from the window frame. Leave the interior and exterior casings intact. Prep the Frame Photo by Russell Kaye Scrape off all loose and blistered paint and patch any holes or cracks with an exterior-grade wood putty, such as the ones from Elmer's or Minwax. Then sand the jambs smooth, and prime and paint the surfaces. Remove the Old Sash Weights Photo by Russell Kaye If the original sash weights are still in place, take this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate behind the window frame.
Unscrew the access panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights. Prep For Insulation Photo by Russell Kaye Tom likes polyurethane foam, because it's more effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation. Make sure to use only low-pressure, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
First, pull out any existing fiberglass in the weight pockets. Spray in the Foam Photo by Russell Kaye Shoot the expanding foam into the holes until it begins to ooze out.
Tom is using a commercial system, but you can do the same job with foam from a can, like Dow's Great Stuff. Also spray foam into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow the excess to harden for at least 6 hours, then break or cut it off flush before replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.
Caulk the Opening Photo by Russell Kaye In preparation for installing the window, apply an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner face of the exterior casings or to the blind stops on the top and sides of the frame. Also apply two continuous beads of caulk along the windowsill. Install the Window Photo by Russell Kaye Working from inside the room, set the bottom of the insert replacement onto the sill, then tip it up into the opening. Press the window tight against the exterior casings or blind stops.
Fasten It Loosely Photo by Russell Kaye Hold the window in place with one 2-inch screw driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should be in just far enough to allow the window to operate. Close and lock the sash. Shim as Necessary Photo by Russell Kaye Adjust the unit by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until it is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly. Measure the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should be the same.
When the window is square, screw it in place through the predrilled holes. To avoid bowing the frame, slip a shim behind the jamb at each screw, then screw through the shim. Trim the shims flush with a utility knife. Caulk, Prime and Paint Photo by Russell Kaye From the outside, measure the gaps between the window frame and the casing.
Anything wider must first be stuffed with foam-rubber backer rod. On the inside, fill any gaps around the window with minimally expanding foam. Finish up by reinstalling the stops or adding new ones. Then prime and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.
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